BY MICHAEL FOUST, PHOTO-JOURNALIST, DE MODE (FRANCE)
New York, London, and Milan were all noteworthy in their own rights, but there's no denying that Paris has a way of making its own distinctive mark on the finalization of the trends for the season at hand. There's a reason they save the city that brings us Chanel, Saint Laurent, and Celine for the absolute end of fashion month, and if you ask us, it's a finale well worth waiting for.
That was proven yet again by the FW 2020-2021 collections that went down the runway of Paris Fashion Week 2020. From the heritage brands we mentioned above to some of the newer stars like Marine Serre and Off-White, not only were there countless covetable looks, but also a slew of fresh trends to emerge which we know are destined to blow up in six months' time.
Ahead, get ready to digest the thirty most important trends to come out of Paris Fashion Week—from full-length opera gloves to latex. And in case you can't wait until next season to participate in the trends here, we shopped each of them out so you can get a head start.
1. Victoria/Tomas
VICTORIA/TOMAS is a french ready-to-wear brand, founded by Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins in 2012, four years after their first encounter at a Paris fashion school.
After a stint at Alexander Wang in New York, Tomas came back to France to launch VICTORIA/TOMAS, a full-fledged line of wearable separates aimed at a new generation of modern, city-dwelling women, mixing both designers’ sensibilities.
Tomas has a fascination with eccentric imagery a la Tim Burton, the ubercool attitude of skaters, and the vibe of the hip-hop world. Victoria, is an art buff and former student, is infatuated with the experimental fashion. The result is a line of neo-arty clothes with sculptural shapes and vivid splashes of color that recall the brushstrokes of a painter.
The duo first gained an international recognition being the youngest finalists of Hyeres Festival of Fashion and Photography in 2013, where they showed a capsule collection of handmade leather garments.
Now married, Victoria and Tomas are continuing their fascinating dialogue on contemporary fashion through appealing and timeless clothes, available at the finest stores around the world.
Talking about Victoria/Tomas collection, Michael said
Victoria/Tomas is one of my favorite collections from these two Parisienne designers. They have had a wonderful and blooming career together as a couple. Their gothic and dark influences have transformed into something absolutely incredible! The Autumn Winter 20/21 collection was no disappointment from this duo. The designs had confidence, grace, and edge all in one. The brands wears were also a nice touch along with all the details seen on the runway. Some of my favorites were the pleated silver outfits and shine, definable something to make you stick out in a crowd and make a statement.
2. Mugler
The creative vision of MUGLER reflects a singular point of view on the world, which transgresses the codes and shakes up the conventions. A fusion of opposites, the MUGLER universe is an experimental laboratory. MUGLER defends a disruptive and avant-garde approach to the world through the prism of the imagination of Mr. Mugler, influenced by culture.
Talking about Mugler's collection, Michael says
Mugler, was a nice surprise as his designs border between couture, Avant-Garde, and streetstyle Paris style! The quality of the designs was very evident in this collection. Fine-tuned leather work and cuts created a futuristic look to the fashion. This show also boasted more diversity in body style which I was pleased to see. The reds of the designs were present and made for some striking poses that I can see easily in formal events and on the street. The care and workmanship of the flow of the outfits was also nice to see on the runway. I cannot wait to see more of his work now, as it was a nice surprise to see something new and different to add to my own style!
3. Ingie Paris
INGIE CHALHOUB
Ever since 2013, as the designer and artistic director of ready-to-wear Parisian style Ingie brand, Ingie Chalhoub has constantly enriched the brand with her transcultural gaze partaking of her double DNA, a gaze which stems from the oriental refinement of her original culture, and is enhanced by the sophistication of Paris, her beloved city.
Designed in the Parisian studio and created in both French and Italian workshops, the brand’s essence rests on the « Romantwist », displaying a positioning which is both resolutely feminine and bold, romantic and contrastive (in cuts, volumes, twisted materials), twisted and easy to wear by day and by night as well.
The brand presents 4 collections per year, meant for cosmopolitan, assertive women who are used to travelling and are attentive to international trends, and more particularly to finishings.
Each one of the collections shows the influence of its designer whose undeniable taste for contemporary Western art and its pictural transgressions, expresses itself through over-size graphic patterns, palettes of colours and unusual volumes.
Besides, as she is deeply aware of the tribute paid by Italian art to the female body, the designer evinces a strong desire to celebrate the free and self-conscious woman, within the scope of a romantic brand which is both sensuous and sophisticated with twisted a touch of “je ne sais quoi”.
Recognized namely for her cocktail collections and red carpet dresses, INGIE provides for international celebrities: Olivia Palermo, Juliette Binoche, America Ferrera, Pamela Anderson, Olivia Wilde, Jessie J, Melanie Brown, Busy Philipps, Sophie Marceau, AnnaLynne McCord, Karen Fairchild, Melora Hardin, Nicole Sheridan, Valérie Kaprisky, Sarah Wayne Callies and Rhea Seahorn Natalia Vodianova, as well as Middle East celebrities: Haifa Wehbe, Nelly Karim, Lolo Al Aslawi and Nancy Ajram.
Talking about his experience photographing Ingie Paris A/W 20-21 collection at Paris Fashion Week 2020, Michael says
I was honoured to be cover this brand here in Paris. The collection was nothing less than a wow the entire way through! Seventies themes continue to grace the runway this year as recycling of fabrics for sustainable fashion continues. The lines of the outfits drew my attention immediately. The shimmer of the golds, and silvers were something to remember. I also really like this trend of using some of the older fabrics but in a new way and modern design. I can not only see myself with my significant other going on a night on the town with these designs but creating a wow moment on the street together. Just incredible and stunning collection all around to grace the runway in Paris!
4. Junko Shimada
Talking about the collection, Designer Junko Shimada says
«Aujourd'hui mieux qu'hier et demain moins qu'aujourd'hui ! Je n’aime pas regarder dans le passé» ("Today better than yesterday and tomorrow less than today! I hate looking back to the past")
«Mon style est toujours le même, c’est la forme qui change» ("My style is still the same, it is the shape that changes")
Elle a la pudeur et l'humilité d'une Japonaise bien élevée, l'indépendance et la franchise d'une Parisienne amazone. Cette indépendance, elle la revendique encore aujourd’hui puisque sa marque est l'une des rares à ne pas dépendre d'un grand groupe. (This independence, she still claims it today since her brand is one of the few not to be part of a big group. She has the modesty and the humility of a well-raised Japanese, the independence and the frankness of a Parisian amazone.)
Talking about the collection, Michael says
This collection started with the colors similar to the Spanish religions and some similar styles to older fashion. The garments were silky and beautiful in their flow on the runway. Comfortable shoes and handbags accessorized the designs and complimented the fashion. The collection had some incredible flow to all the collection. My favorites were the prints along with the colors that were striking. The feminine looks to compliment and also comfort was evident in this seasons collection. I was pleasantly surprised and look forward to more of her collection!
5. Winnie New York
WINNIE is a new label by designer Idris Balogun. Idris is Nigerian, grew up in London and now lives in New York. He already has an impressive resume. He started on Saville Row before working for Burberry and Tom Ford.
Talking about the collection, Michael says
This show was a smaller show for his first debut in Paris. Winnie New York shows some very interesting looks that are very New York inspired. The looks of this collection were a mix of the seventies fashion and also with a strong African connection and influence. The collection had both a streetstyle and also a slightly formal look to it. The heaviness of the fabrics suggest these are a great design and comfortable for the colder and wet winters in the North-eastern US. I look forward to seeing this designer evolve his style further for both Homme and Femme.